Downstream leaders

Most times I like to fish upstream with a dry or nymph. But there are occasions when I fish downstream, lobibng the fly and then wiggling line out with the current. Now, the problem comes in close quarters, where I need a short leader. Short to enable me to lob/cast and direct with the line. Otherwise (a) I"m in the bushes or (b) cant control the drift of the fly. I'm thinking about four or five feet might be about right. What are my best taper options?

Thanks!
Peter

Are you after specific "X" sizes or percentages or both?--for a hand tied leader. Specific "X" sizes, I think, will depend on what weight line you're using. The site below provides information on hand tied leaders based on length and line weight. You will have to adjust based on you're shorter leader requirement since the chart only goes down to 7.5'. Not sure what rod length you're using, but you may also consider a shorter rod. I like a 6.5' rod with a commercially-available 7.5 leader for small bushy streams. Granted, I may have to adjust the casting method, but can usually find the correct method to get the fly on target.

http://www.jjsjigs.com/JJsJigs/hand-...82f2d38-p.html

Hope this helps

Quote:

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Originally Posted by streamcaster1

Most times I like to fish upstream with a dry or nymph. But there are occasions when I fish downstream, lobibng the fly and then wiggling line out with the current. Now, the problem comes in close quarters, where I need a short leader. Short to enable me to lob/cast and direct with the line. Otherwise (a) I"m in the bushes or (b) cant control the drift of the fly. I'm thinking about four or five feet might be about right. What are my best taper options?

Thanks!
Peter

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Peter,
I think a length of about 7'6" would suit. The reason I say that is any shorter and the current begins to influence you leader butt section. I have included a couple of designs that have been built for 3/5 weight lines. These have been designed around weight and not thickness. This is to maximise the transfer of energy from the line through to the fly. I do this by converting both the line and leader materials (nylon) to Specific Gravity calculations. So they will not work with Fluorocarbon as it is heavier.

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/s...netLeaders.jpg

Here are some important ratios to keep in mind:
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/s...roportions.jpg

Danny and Philip,

Thanks. Yes, I do tie my own leaders, and percentage recipes would be what I need. I'd adjust for (X) rating. I'll check out that web site and Philip's recipes. The thing is, I think I need a really supple leader. I normally use Rio Powerflex (?). Is there something better? Umpqua? What do you like?

Peter

I started using Rio Powerflex this year and like it very much. I also like Frog Hair, but it's a bit more costly.

Peter,
The real difficulty is getting the right sizes in the materials that you select. Orvis Super Strong has them as does Frog Hair. I have yet to see the full range of Rio. Obviously you can mix the brands and make the butt stiff (which is what you need) and the front more suppleMay I suggest that you start with a single brand and then start experimenting. Sometimes you do need stiffer leaders.
I tie all of mine with Frog Hair and it does the job for me.

Peter: I fish mostly tiny streams with native Cutthroat popns., in streams that are often domed with Alders and Willows. I have shortened my leaders to as much as 30-some-inches, to enable me to Bow-and-Arrow cast to the stream, get a drift down, then--and this is the most important part--set the hook. The very short leader enables me to still have fly line out my rod tip, then set the hook without my rod first hitting an overhanging branch. Most of these trips are far in the backcountry, so I just pack some leader material and tie the leader I need when I get to the stream. My most common leader is about 20" of 2x, then about 15" of 4x. Since you don't really need to turn a fly over that you are sending downstream, you don't need the traditional fat butt section. The longer and thinner you make the last section, the more it will bend around with current. I vary this idea a bunch, depending on the size and character of the stream I'm on.

This may or may not help with your waters, but it works for mine. Hope it helps, or at least entertains you!

http://i713.photobucket.com/albums/w...gBeaverCrk.jpg
Fishing Beaver Creek in Utah, for Greenback Cutthroat, with a 30-inch leader.

Zac

Looks like your ghillie needs a haircut and a shave. ;-)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Zac Sexton

Peter: I fish mostly tiny streams with native Cutthroat popns., in streams that are often domed with Alders and Willows. I have shortened my leaders to as much as 30-some-inches, to enable me to Bow-and-Arrow cast to the stream, get a drift down, then--and this is the most important part--set the hook. The very short leader enables me to still have fly line out my rod tip, then set the hook without my rod first hitting an overhanging branch. Most of these trips are far in the backcountry, so I just pack some leader material and tie the leader I need when I get to the stream. My most common leader is about 20" of 2x, then about 15" of 4x. Since you don't really need to turn a fly over that you are sending downstream, you don't need the traditional fat butt section. The longer and thinner you make the last section, the more it will bend around with current. I vary this idea a bunch, depending on the size and character of the stream I'm on.

This may or may not help with your waters, but it works for mine. Hope it helps, or at least entertains you!

http://i713.photobucket.com/albums/w...gBeaverCrk.jpg
Fishing Beaver Creek in Utah, for Greenback Cutthroat, with a 30-inch leader.

Zac

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